Archive for September 18th, 2008

Tailoring & Techniques: A visit to Biella

Italians do it better, anyway when it comes to fabrics. The worlds most renowned weavers of fabrics for suits come from the Biella district in Italy. The districted is situated right at the foot of the Italian Alps, and was ideal for weaving with its copious supply of water coming down from the mountains needed for washing fleece and powering mills.Many of the family businesses that still produce the finest fabrics, started as early as in the 19th century. Knowledge is passed on through generations, with every generation developing new techniques.

We use fabrics from renowned weaver families like Luigi Botto, Loro Piana and Cerrutti, all situated in the Biella district. All of which has archives with fabrics manufactured dating as far back as the 19 century.

An important source of inspiration for new fabrics comes from the past, namely these historical archives. We usually take a historical fabric that we then reconstruct, meaning taking a wool pattern and use it for a cotton fabric or changing the colours. Simply combining the past with the present.

Mats is somewhat of a fabric doctor at Tiger, knowing everything that’s worth knowing about fabrics. He recently came back from an inspiration trip to Biella, as we are about start working on Autumn/Winter 2009 collection. He paid a visit to the old archives in the search of inspiration. Here are some pics from his trip and how we work:

The chief designer at Luigi Botto opens the door their archives.

A specification of how to reproduce a fabric on the old mechanical looms.

As everything else in society the design and production is now computerized.

An old file dating back to 1903, the same year Tiger was founded.

A folio from the same folder featured above, with samples of wool fabrics.

The oldest mill in the Biella district, which has been turned into a museum.

The wheel in the picture above was used to connect the looms in the mill with the elevating wheel that generated power from the river. When turning on the power to the looms in the morning in the 19th century people said “Dare acqua”, meaning turn on the water. The same term is still used today even though the mechanical looms are long gone, and modern electricity is used.

The chief designer at Cerrutti at work.

A machine from the 19th century used for removing rubbish from the yarn at Loro Piana.