Archive for 2008

Pick of the week: New Years special

Since New Years is around the corner, I thought it would be nice to do a pick of the week with a New Years theme. I went down to the new store at Jakobsbergsgatan and let Martin, Linda and Erika make their picks.

Martin is wearing a black tuxedo, together with a black bowtie and black leather shoes.

Linda is wearing a black dress and a pair of high-heeled shoes.

Erika is wearing a pink dress from the Tiger Jeans collection.

Martin’s outfit

Black tuxedo jacket (Filon tubz) 3799 SEK
Black tuxedo vest (Vond tux) 1400 SEK
Black trousers (Patcher) 1000 SEK
White shirt (Franz) 700 SEK
Black leather shoes (Jude) 1700 SEK

Linda’s outfit

Black dress (Maren) 1999 SEK
Shoes (Ida 24) 1699 SEK

Erika’s outfit

Pink dress (Vanity) 1000 SEK

Tiger of Sweden history: Part 2– Stormy weather

In the second part of the history of Tiger of Sweden, we pick up where we left the last time; with the death of Marcus Schwartzman. His son Robert Schwartzman had been running the company for a couple of years after his father’s death. This was the start of a dark time in the company’s history.

In the beginning of the sixties the competition started to get tougher.  Companies from countries like Finland and Portugal were able to compete with lower prices.
This was the start of the major textile crisis in Sweden. Six years after the death of his father, Robert perished himself. Late at night, on the way home from a client meeting, he experienced a car accident that would take his life.

The cover of the 1968 catalogue.

The tragic event caused concern for the future of Tiger, and was start of the turbulent time that lay ahead. In 1968 the textile crises climaxed. During the crisis 70 000 people lost their jobs in Swedish textile industry. But that was not the only thing that contributed to the decline. The 68-generation didn’t wear suits. As a part of the liberation from their parent’s generation, jeans, t-shirts and clogs became a fashion statement.

From the 1973 lookbook. 

In order to save jobs, the Swedish government started buying up the textile companies. In the mid sixties the government bought Tiger. The same thing happened to Tiger’s main competitor at the time, Oscar Jacobsson. In order to keep them from competing with each other, each company got a different objective. Tiger had to focus on export (only allowed to sell to a couple of stores in Sweden). Oscar Jacobsson on the other hand had to focus on the Swedish market alone.  During the seventies Tiger was therefore forbidden to market itself in Sweden.

Instead Tiger became a prestigious supplier of suits in the UK (for instance to Marks and Spencer) and in America. A office was set up in the Empire State Building in New York. Tiger got a reputation for quality garments. One in particular. Tiger manufactured a model in gabardine from the renowned producer Bleiche in Switzerland. Gabardine was an extremely difficult material to make suits in. And few had the ability. Tiger therefore sold 70 000 gabardine suits a year on the US market alone.

The 1978 lookbook.

At the end of the seventies the public demand for gabardine declined, and sales went down. In 1987 the New York office was finally closed.

In 1983 the CEO and Head of production at the time bought the company from the government. They started market the brand once again and lay the foundation of what was about to happen later on.

In the eighties the suit was once again latest fashion. The Yuppie era had begun. Quality was now on demand and Tiger got once again a boost. In 1989 a government company once again bought Tiger. A series of bankruptcies followed. But in the fall of 1992 a young group of people at Tiger had a vision. With a new mantra they developed a new collection that would be show cased the following spring. It turned out to be the start of the Tiger we know today…

In the third and final chapter we get to follow what led to the success story Tiger is today.

Behind the Scenes: How a suit is made

Making a suit is quite more complicated than you might think. In fact, the process from cutting the fabric to a final suit involves over 300 phases. It actually takes 19 times longer to make a suit than a pair of jeans.

Among the most difficult phases is the stitching of the lapel and sewing on the sleeves.
But equally important is pressing, which is actually half of the craft. By pressing you mould the suit
to give it the right shape.

I find the whole process pretty cool. See for yourselves.

Inspiration & Culture: A sneak preview of the spring shoe lines with Anna

As I wrote earlier, next season will be the first whole shoe collection designed by talented Anna Werner. I took a chat with Anna about the collections.

Anna actually started studying traditional fashion at Beckmans together with Maria Östblom (designer of the Women’s Label), but somewhat changed course after she graduated.

”I started getting really into bags, accessories, and shoes. I guess it’s the 3 dimensional shapes that’s fun,” she told while we talked about the collections.

The first whole women’s line by Anna is marked by its simplicity, with clean cuts and hidden stitching. Open surfaces, colour combinations and volume, mark the details instead. The line has a lot of something that Anna describes as ”dry surfaces”, meaning the dry texture of the leather.

The men’s shoe line has an eclectic mix, but is marked by its classic theme with (as I reported before) handmade Italian shoes.

Here are some of the highlights from the collections that will hit the stores in the spring:

 

Here are some of the mens shoes, all hand-made in Italy:

 

Pick of the week: Pick of the week is back!

After the summer break the pick of the week thread is back with the first autumn picks. I visited Malin and Amanda at the new Women’s store at PK Huset in Stockholm. The girls got to pick out their favourite outfits
at the moment.

Malin is wearing a black wool and cashmere jacket together with a black dress and black leather boots.

Amanda picked out this outfit. She’s wearing a wool sweater together with black leather pants and a pair of black leather shoes.

Malin´s outfit

Wool and cashmere jacket (penda) 4499 SEK
Black dress (kira) 1499 SEK
Shoes 1999 SEK

Amanda´s outfit

Black wool sweater (Nedaa) 1399 SEK
Black leather pants (Dawle) 3999 SEK
Shoes (noire) 3499 SEK

Tailoring & Techniques: A visit to Biella

Italians do it better, anyway when it comes to fabrics. The worlds most renowned weavers of fabrics for suits come from the Biella district in Italy. The districted is situated right at the foot of the Italian Alps, and was ideal for weaving with its copious supply of water coming down from the mountains needed for washing fleece and powering mills.Many of the family businesses that still produce the finest fabrics, started as early as in the 19th century. Knowledge is passed on through generations, with every generation developing new techniques.

We use fabrics from renowned weaver families like Luigi Botto, Loro Piana and Cerrutti, all situated in the Biella district. All of which has archives with fabrics manufactured dating as far back as the 19 century.

An important source of inspiration for new fabrics comes from the past, namely these historical archives. We usually take a historical fabric that we then reconstruct, meaning taking a wool pattern and use it for a cotton fabric or changing the colours. Simply combining the past with the present.

Mats is somewhat of a fabric doctor at Tiger, knowing everything that’s worth knowing about fabrics. He recently came back from an inspiration trip to Biella, as we are about start working on Autumn/Winter 2009 collection. He paid a visit to the old archives in the search of inspiration. Here are some pics from his trip and how we work:

The chief designer at Luigi Botto opens the door their archives.

A specification of how to reproduce a fabric on the old mechanical looms.

As everything else in society the design and production is now computerized.

An old file dating back to 1903, the same year Tiger was founded.

A folio from the same folder featured above, with samples of wool fabrics.

The oldest mill in the Biella district, which has been turned into a museum.

The wheel in the picture above was used to connect the looms in the mill with the elevating wheel that generated power from the river. When turning on the power to the looms in the morning in the 19th century people said “Dare acqua”, meaning turn on the water. The same term is still used today even though the mechanical looms are long gone, and modern electricity is used.

The chief designer at Cerrutti at work.

A machine from the 19th century used for removing rubbish from the yarn at Loro Piana.

Stores: A chat with Therese about the largest Tiger of Sweden store yet

The Tiger of Sweden store (the one at Jakobsbergsgatan) shut down in July in order to make way for a completely new store. The new 3-floor store just opened and I took a chat with talented store manager Therese.

Tell us a bit about the new store?

The store now consists of 3 floors, each devoted to a separate collection. The Women’s and Jeans Label each got their own floor, and now gets the focus and room they deserve. The store also has a completely new interior that better reflects the collections.

How does it feel with the new store?

It feels really exiting. I’m happy that we now have 3 floors and now can offer a complete wardrobe with everything from casual wear to tailored garments. Since every line has got its own floor they can be displayed the way they are meant to.

What’s your vision with the store?

My vision is that we can offer knowledge about tailoring and have a more personal relationship with our customers than you are normally used to. Simply that you always feel welcome and get the service and time you need.

Will you have any made-to-measure service?

We will be able to offer made-to-measure suits (adjusted length in arms and legs) for both men and women, where you are able to pick fabrics that does not exist in the ordinary collections. In the future it’s our goal to be able to offer fabrics that you only can find in this store.

Some pics from the store:

Friends: Win a signed Kaiser Chiefs album

Our friends in the Kaiser Chiefs has just finished recording their new album “Off With Their Heads”, and are about to start a UK tour. They have sent a signed copy of their last album that you now have the chance to win.

The first one who emails to blog@tigerofsweden.se gets the signed album.

General news: Be right back…

I’m heading to Öland for a four week summer vacation. The blog will be closed until I get back at the end of August with new updates. Have a nice summer everyone!

Behind the Scenes: Backstage at the fashion show

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